Mountains and Rivers

Matanuska River

We’ve covered a lot of ground since we left Anchorage on August 14.  Passing the same glaciers from the opposite direction gave a new perspective and a reminder of the grandeur.  We stopped at the International Border for a few last photos – and a farewell to Alaska.  This may be the only time we pass this particular sign again so we wanted to immortalize it. 

Welcome to or Farewell from Alaska!

Unfortified Boundary Line

Back in Canada we were surrounded by miles of Muskeg forest as far as the horizon.  When we first started seeing the stunted and twisted Black Spruce trees we thought they were diseased, but after hundreds of miles of them I was curious enough to do a little research.  Muskeg is called bogland in some places but it is consistently acidic, moist and infertile.  Because of the soil type or because of permafrost the ground doesn’t drain, creating permanent moist areas where vegetation doesn’t decompose as it normally would.  It is almost always found in areas with cool summers.  Since the decomposition is slow, plant matter builds up into a peaty, moisture-retentive soil.  Neither animals nor plants thrive in muskeg.   It also creates an unstable surface for highways and other structures.  We passed occasional remains of cabins or buildings partially submerged or at unnatural angles.

Black Spruce Muskeg Forest

Kluane Lake on a Sunny Day

Last time we were through here it was overcast and the color of Kluane Lake was so different.  We have had sunshine and blue skies and the colors of the lake reflect them so well.

A Good Fishing Spot

Wednesday, the 15^th we focused on finding some water for SRD to try a little fishing.  There is so much water in Canada but some of it is really BIG and doesn’t tempt a fly fisherman who wants to wade the stream edges.  There were a few spots though. 

In one of them the fisherman was just hitting his stride when a very large and very surprised beaver climbed onto an adjacent rock, looked up in horror to see the intruder and immediately dived back into the river!  We watched him as he came back a couple of times to verify the disruption and then finally swam downstream a little bit, crossed to the other side and worked his way up the opposite bank.  No fish were killed or disturbed that day, but you couldn’t imagine more beautiful places to try.

The Fisherman Wasn't Here First

Very Disturbed Beaver Crossing to the Other Bank

Fireweed of the Day

While SRD fishes TL and The Diva explore, photograph the local fireweed again and again trying to capture it and not quite succeeding.  You will see efforts sprinkled through these posts – but not one of them is as good as the subject is in person.  I am bringing home seeds to experiment.

A Yukon Morning

We camped that night at a campground that, in its heyday, must have been very nice.  As are so many of the businesses along these remote highways, it is “For Sale.”  It also feels neglected and worn out.  How sad in this beautiful country.

Thursday the 16^th was another fishing day, another fireweed photo-op day and a day to think about outhouses in the Yukon.  Until recently I had very few positive thoughts about outhouses, but my eyes have been opened.  Yukon Territory has many good attributes, but one you don’t hear about is the regularly-spaced “rustic” rest stops with well-built and amazingly well-maintained outhouses.  They usually are in good repair, usually don’t smell unpleasant, usually have abundant paper and are always welcome sights in the miles of wilderness.  This one is cast concrete with a translucent roof and a custom lock.  It’s a typical design. 

Yukon Reststop Outhouse

Transportation is getting dusty! 

Fishing the Rancheria River

Overlooking the Rancheria River Valley

Today's Fireweed

 

Thursday afternoon we turned South, leaving the Alaska Highway to travel through British Columbia on the Cassiar Highway.  The road changed abruptly to a narrow but well-paved, unmarked road with very steep drop-offs on both sides most of the time.  The scenery is unbelievable – rivers, lakes, huge mountains, bears, stone sheep.  There are very few cars or people.  The Alaska Highway seemed very busy in comparison.  You must drive slower on the Cassiar and if you pass a logging truck or another vehicle each knows to hug the outside edge.  You also wave a greeting.

Cassiar Highway

Stone's Sheep

 

There are a few successful resorts.  This one has guests arriving by helicopter!  We checked on a room for the night but even if we were willing to pay their price they had no vacancy.

 

 

Fireweed of the day

Stikine River

On Friday the 17^th we arrived at the junction of the Yellowhead Highway, Route 16, on which we’ll travel to Prince George.  We’re staying two nights in a vintage motel in New Hazelton, BC, The Bulkley Valley Motel.  Owners Susan and Riley Edgar have refurbished it beautifully and our room has a perfect little kitchen and comfortable living space.  After a morning hike through the Ross Lake Provincial Park on the Rainmaker Trail we spent all day being tourists. 

Ross Lake

Hazelton BC Municipal Office

Don and Diva and the Skeena River

There are statues representing the industries and people who shaped the region at the visitor's center as you enter New Hazelton

 

 

Gitxsan village

Totem Entry

Old Hazelton, South Hazelton and New Hazelton (the Hazeltons) are all part of an area where the Hagwiliget people have lived for generations and the highlight of our day was a tour of the ‘KSAN Historical Village on the banks of the Skeena River.  It is a reproduction of a typical Gitxsan village and our guide was a young woman who explained the family and village culture, daily life and history.  They feel very fortunate that Europeans did not arrive here until well into the 19^th century so they never lost their lifestyle and history.  They have created and maintain a thriving culture that is very much alive today.  It is centered on the confluence of the Bulkley and Skeena rivers.

Hagwiliget Bridge

You cross when there is no one coming from the other direction

To get to this village you must cross the Hagwilget Bridge.  It is a historically noteworthy one-lane suspension bridge built in 1932 and the fourth bridge constructed on this site.  It takes traffic across a steep gorge with the river 80 metres below.  It is currently being evaluated for safely and we enjoyed a conversation with one of the steel workers on the project.  He says they are building scaffolding which will allow them to replace some of the hangars with new hardware, taking the old ones to be evaluated for strength.  They will also remove the wire wrapping from parts of the main suspension cables exposing the wood pulp covering of the actual cable.  They can cut through the wood to expose the cable and test that for corrosion. 

If you read the words and look at the photos on the sign explaining the bridge you’ll be able to see the previous three versions of this bridge.  The text about the second says:

“Second bridge built in 1880.  Abandoned material from the Collins Telegraph Line was incorporated extensively, with the same basic cantilever design as the first bridge, but with the addition of king post trusses at each end and a queen post truss in the centre.

It is reported that the completed bridge was tested by sending local women across with fully loaded packs, while the men were underneath with poles, ready to reinforce the structure as needed.”

The previous bridge number three was dismantled and part of it was re-installed as a foot bridge that we will attempt to find as we travel tomorrow.

I'm not even tempted to dive or swim here!