Matanuska River
We’ve covered a lot of
ground since we left Anchorage on August 14.
Passing the same glaciers from the opposite direction gave a new
perspective and a reminder of the grandeur.
We stopped at the International Border for a few last photos – and a
farewell to Alaska. This may be the only
time we pass this particular sign again so we wanted to immortalize it.
Welcome to or Farewell from Alaska!
Unfortified Boundary Line
Back in Canada we were
surrounded by miles of Muskeg forest as far as the horizon. When we first started seeing the stunted and
twisted Black Spruce trees we thought they were diseased, but after hundreds of
miles of them I was curious enough to do a little research. Muskeg is called bogland in some places but
it is consistently acidic, moist and infertile.
Because of the soil type or because of permafrost the ground doesn’t
drain, creating permanent moist areas where vegetation doesn’t decompose as it normally
would. It is almost always found in
areas with cool summers. Since the
decomposition is slow, plant matter builds up into a peaty, moisture-retentive
soil. Neither animals nor plants thrive
in muskeg. It also creates an unstable surface for
highways and other structures. We passed
occasional remains of cabins or buildings partially submerged or at unnatural
angles.
Black Spruce Muskeg Forest
Kluane Lake on a Sunny Day
Last time we were through here it was
overcast and the color of Kluane Lake was so different. We have had sunshine and blue skies and the
colors of the lake reflect them so well.
A Good Fishing Spot
Wednesday, the 15th
we focused on finding some water for SRD to try a little fishing. There is so much water in Canada but some of
it is really BIG and doesn’t tempt a fly fisherman who wants to wade the stream
edges. There were a few spots though.
In one of them the fisherman was just hitting his stride when a very large and very surprised beaver climbed onto an adjacent rock, looked up in horror to see the intruder and immediately dived back into the river! We watched him as he came back a couple of times to verify the disruption and then finally swam downstream a little bit, crossed to the other side and worked his way up the opposite bank. No fish were killed or disturbed that day, but you couldn’t imagine more beautiful places to try.
In one of them the fisherman was just hitting his stride when a very large and very surprised beaver climbed onto an adjacent rock, looked up in horror to see the intruder and immediately dived back into the river! We watched him as he came back a couple of times to verify the disruption and then finally swam downstream a little bit, crossed to the other side and worked his way up the opposite bank. No fish were killed or disturbed that day, but you couldn’t imagine more beautiful places to try.
The Fisherman Wasn't Here First
Very Disturbed Beaver Crossing to the Other Bank
Fireweed of the Day
While SRD fishes TL and
The Diva explore, photograph the local fireweed again and again trying to
capture it and not quite succeeding. You will see efforts sprinkled through these
posts – but not one of them is as good as the subject is in person. I am bringing home seeds to experiment.
A Yukon Morning
We camped that night at
a campground that, in its heyday, must have been very nice. As are so many of the businesses along these
remote highways, it is “For Sale.” It
also feels neglected and worn out. How
sad in this beautiful country.
Thursday the 16th
was another fishing day, another fireweed photo-op day and a day to think about
outhouses in the Yukon. Until recently I
had very few positive thoughts about outhouses, but my eyes have been opened. Yukon Territory has many good attributes, but
one you don’t hear about is the regularly-spaced “rustic” rest stops with well-built
and amazingly well-maintained outhouses.
They usually are in good repair, usually don’t smell unpleasant, usually
have abundant paper and are always welcome sights in the miles of wilderness. This one is cast concrete with a translucent
roof and a custom lock. It’s a typical design.
Yukon Reststop Outhouse
Transportation is getting dusty!
Fishing the Rancheria River
Overlooking the Rancheria River Valley
Today's Fireweed
Thursday afternoon we turned
South, leaving the Alaska Highway to travel through British Columbia on the
Cassiar Highway. The road changed
abruptly to a narrow but well-paved, unmarked road with very steep drop-offs on
both sides most of the time. The scenery
is unbelievable – rivers, lakes, huge mountains, bears, stone sheep. There are very few cars or people. The Alaska Highway seemed very busy in
comparison. You must drive slower on the
Cassiar and if you pass a logging truck or another vehicle each knows to hug
the outside edge. You also wave a
greeting.
Cassiar Highway
Stone's Sheep
There are a few
successful resorts. This one has guests arriving
by helicopter! We checked on a room for
the night but even if we were willing to pay their price they had no vacancy.
Fireweed of the day
Stikine River
On Friday the 17th
we arrived at the junction of the Yellowhead Highway, Route 16, on which we’ll
travel to Prince George. We’re staying two
nights in a vintage motel in New Hazelton, BC, The Bulkley Valley Motel. Owners Susan and Riley Edgar have refurbished
it beautifully and our room has a perfect little kitchen and comfortable living
space. After a morning hike through the Ross
Lake Provincial Park on the Rainmaker Trail we spent all day being
tourists.
Ross Lake
Hazelton BC Municipal Office
Don and Diva and the Skeena River
There are statues representing the industries and people who shaped the region at the visitor's center as you enter New Hazelton
Gitxsan village
Totem Entry
Old Hazelton, South
Hazelton and New Hazelton (the Hazeltons) are all part of an area where the Hagwiliget
people have lived for generations and the highlight of our day was a tour of
the ‘KSAN Historical Village on the banks of the Skeena River. It is a reproduction of a typical Gitxsan village
and our guide was a young woman who explained the family and village culture, daily
life and history. They feel very fortunate
that Europeans did not arrive here until well into the 19th century
so they never lost their lifestyle and history.
They have created and maintain a thriving culture that is very much
alive today. It is centered on the
confluence of the Bulkley and Skeena rivers.
Hagwiliget Bridge
You cross when there is no one coming from the other direction
To get to this village
you must cross the Hagwilget Bridge. It
is a historically noteworthy one-lane suspension bridge built in 1932 and the
fourth bridge constructed on this site.
It takes traffic across a steep gorge with the river 80 metres
below. It is currently being evaluated
for safely and we enjoyed a conversation with one of the steel workers on the
project. He says they are
building scaffolding which will allow them to replace some of the hangars with
new hardware, taking the old ones to be evaluated for strength. They will also remove the wire wrapping from
parts of the main suspension cables exposing the wood pulp covering of the
actual cable. They can cut through the
wood to expose the cable and test that for corrosion.
If you read the words
and look at the photos on the sign explaining the bridge you’ll be able to see
the previous three versions of this bridge.
The text about the second says:
“Second bridge built in
1880. Abandoned material from the
Collins Telegraph Line was incorporated extensively, with the same basic
cantilever design as the first bridge, but with the addition of king post
trusses at each end and a queen post truss in the centre.
It is reported that the
completed bridge was tested by sending local women across with fully loaded
packs, while the men were underneath with poles, ready to reinforce the
structure as needed.”
The previous bridge
number three was dismantled and part of it was re-installed as a foot bridge
that we will attempt to find as we travel tomorrow.
I'm not even tempted to dive or swim here!
